Napa Valley Black Book

For the last couple of years I've been spending quite a bit of time in the Napa Valley, a place I love, but isn't the easiest place to navigate-it can feel commercial and a bit adult Disneyland. However, I think there is a sort of secret Napa, and I've pulled together all the great suggestions from friends and my own experiences here. Personally, if I'm staying in a hotel, I like to be "up valley", which is to say, in Calistoga. Whatever you do, plan your days where you aren't zig-zagging. I've plotted this list out to start with where you'll spend the night-but then organized it by town. I've included high and low options-god knows you may really want a hot dog for lunch after having a tasting menu the night before. As always, if there's something I've missed, please tell me in the comments, and I'll keep adding to this list as I find more spots I hear great things about.

STAY

The Francis House, Calistoga: We fell in love with the owners Dina and Richard-who have the best taste, and have created a beautiful inn at this historical landmark property. They'll send you to all the right places, and also make you an epic breakfast.